The DMZ is a Korean “must see”, simply for the historical significance and even more so for the current learning from the South Korean people. The South Koreans are still hopeful for eventual reconnection with relatives in the North. Hopes are put into objects like the reunification bell and bridge.
More tangibly and patiently the South Koreans provide aid in the form of food and economic assistance, trying to help their disjointed peoples to the North. This is inspite of persistent aggression and posturing from the dictatorial North Korean regime.
My biggest surprise was the fact that the North Korean’s had built seven known tunnels for a re-invasion of South Korea since the "Cease Fire". Each was found prior to completion through test drilling efforts of the South. Many of the tunnels, capable of moving over 30,000 troops per hour, were large enough to transport artillery pieces.
These tunnels are bold incursions under the demilitarized zone of the north, passing well into the southern DMZ. Assumptions are, that if successful, these human pipelines would have emerged beyond the Southern DMZ lines. When the North assessed that they had been discovered they quickly painted sections of the walls black and said that they were errant coal mining shafts. This is a geologic impossibility since the bedrock is solid granite. Once this logic flaw was realized by the North, the next explanation was equally brilliant. “We didn’t build them, the South did.” This obviously explains the non-existent entry points in the South. The South, under UN supervision to prove North Korea’s violation of the Cease Fire Agreement, drilled the only major entry point below the 38th Parallel.
The next tourist location within the DMZ is the observation platform, where both the Northern and Southern zones are clearly visible. We had a stellar day and could see for miles to the North.
The contrast between the two Korea’s is immediate. The most obvious feature is that the South is forested and practically every living thing has been cut down north of the DMZ for fuel. Less than a mile to the south of the watchtower hill is a brand new "state of the art" train station, waiting for the first cross border excursion.
Upon return to Seoul, I rode the subway for an hour to the north and then caught a train to find the new location of the orphanage. The Korean hospitality continued. One of the orphanage staff met me at the train station and drove me to the new location. The smaller original and relocated orphanage had burned in the late 1970’s leaving a still standing white shell next to the newer building.
The orphanage and 52 resident children are still very much supported through volunteers and donations by US Military personnel. The new director grew up in the original Paju location and made the transition to Seoul. I couldn’t take pictures of the children because it was after dark and the young ones were preparing for bed, while the older children were scattered in the yard. However, it was very reassuring to receive their cheerful sendoff when they realized I was leaving.
My key “take away” and lasting impression from Korea will be the warmth of her people. My new friends, the street food vendors, further demonstrated this. I loved being around this husband and wife team. They simply radiated comfort. Over the three evenings of eating at their stand we shared laughs and smiles. This evening the husband was graciously giving me new things to try. When he cut into the sausage, my stomach turned. I didn’t want to be impolite. So, I did what every good tourist should do and took a picture and tried it. The sausage was actually a casing filled with black translucent rice noodles and bits of mystery protein. It was surprisingly delicious. Everyone, including the bystanders were please with my positive response.
I picked up the pace a little on finishing my meal, as the animal organs steaming in the pot next to the sausages were nothing, even politely, that I wanted to try. In saying “good bye” the wife asked insistently a single word “Tomorrow?” This evoked the mime routine of “not tomorrow, I’m flying away.” After many handshakes, nods, and smiles I headed back to the hostel to pack for the morning flight.
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