The bus pulled into Istanbul Otogar, bus station, at approximately 8:30am. I loved my previous visit to Istanbul so was excited to get back to the Sultanahmet area.
I am continually amazed by the grace and care for strangers that the Turkish people freely give. An example was riding the metro this morning, with both my expedition pack and daypack, the rush hour crowd was thick. Yet, in spite of the crowded conditions people made way for me to get to the front of the car where a ledge lay. The guys, crowded around this single place to sit, waved me over and made room to prop my expedition pack on the ledge. If this were the NY subway, the local tuffs would have simply laughed at the entertainment value of watching a tourist struggle against the jolts, starts, and stops of the metro.
The same was true of my transfer to the streetcar. A couple of local guys my age helped guide me into the packed train and even assisted in getting my pack down to the floor, so it would be less intrusive. These two helpers then jumped right into conversation and we talked about their travels to the Bay Area and one in particular had a repeated story of loosing at chess to homeless men on Market Street. Whenever he goes to San Francisco, he likes to walk down Market Street to engage in chess games and conversation the local homeless. This type of honest human interest is rare in the world.
After dropping bags at the Antique Hostel, I headed out to see one of the few surviving ancient cisterns and the Sultan’s Palace. The Basilica Cistern, Yerebatian Sarnici, was very impressive, even though dimly lit and damp. To my surprise there were fish living in the crystal clear waters.
Every time an ancient engineering marvel is visited I am struck by our lack of appreciation for how advanced civilization truly was between three and five thousand years ago. Yes, there were no computers or load distribution modeling, but the engineering calculations were made just the same. A point of interest was the use of previous Greek stonework, in the form of two Medusa heads, as pillar foundations. These two columns were placed in the furthest corner from the door and placed upside-down and sideways.
Speaking of post industrial revolution and its benefits, for instance traveling what would have taken more than a week in an overnight bus allows for mental and physical burnout. When visiting the Sultan’s Palace, Topkapi Sarayi, my capacity to absorb more historical odds and ends was at an end. (No offense to my Turkish friends, as the palace was beautiful, and I was exhausted.)
However, I wanted to see the 86 ct. diamond, just to say I had, but the huge displays of cookware, miscellaneous 19th century jewelry and clothing were beyond my mental endurance. I was much more interested in the view of the Bosporus Straight and the spanning bridge.
Despite not being able to take pictures to share, the diamond did have an interesting story. It was originally found in a garbage dump in the 1800’s. A beggar traded three spoons for the uncut and unpolished gem. When it was discovered that the stone was actually a diamond, the Sultan called for the prize. That is one way to settle an argument, simply take the disputed item. So the Sultan had the diamond cut and polished to make an 86 ct. ring. Maybe he saw the obvious downside of a ring this large and quickly turned the stone into a centerpiece for a turban pin.
Drained of energy and spirit, I did what every good self-respecting Yank does in a foreign country, headed right for McDonald’s and a Big Mac meal complete with apple pie. Recharged with ample calories, the Grand Bazaar was the next destination. The Mall of America doesn’t hold a candle to the volume of this indoor and outdoor market, touting over 4,000 stores. Since the hotel in Cairo destroyed one of my shirts it was time for a replacement.
One of the great traditions in Turkey is the drinking of tea. Small quantities are consumed almost constantly throughout the day. It is not unusual for a deal, while shopping, to be finalized over a glass of tea. When friends meet, one of the first things done, after shaking hands or kissing cheeks, is to drink a shot sized tulip glass of tea together. Actually, throughout Asia tea is consumed and surprisingly through Africa as well. So unless the trend changes in South America, maybe one of the longevity keys that the rest of the world holds is the vast consumption of antioxidants found in tea?
Preparing to leave Turkey, I have to give an overwhelming endorsement! Turkey is a country of great beauty, warm and generous people, thousands of years of integral history, and holds a secure place on the "must return" list.
