One last morning in Athens before heading to the airport for Budapest and I had no idea that the Greek National Archeology Museum would have such an impact. Truth be said, it had more to do with memories than artifacts.
The first exhibit was a selection of the treasures of Myceana. Innocuous enough, but this exhibit was the epitome of a favorite childhood memory. By the time I was large enough to interact, Dad was traveling for work almost consistently. With both older brothers away at boarding school in the states, I felt pretty isolated. Dad was an avid reader and probably read five times the number of books I will ever read. One of his books was on the archeological dig in Myceana, led by Heinrich Schliemann, in 1876 that was looking for the historical starting point for Jason and the Argonauts. I took a risk and interrupted to find out what he was reading. To my surprise he started reading out loud. There were pictures too and the death mask of Agamemnon fascinated, along with the Cretan inspired bull’s head and lion face. Because this moment was so rare these pictures have been locked in memory for almost thirty years.
So when I walked into the exhibit and was immediately faced with the mask of Agamemnon, literally my feet were frozen and my heart was thumping. No explanation of the exhibit’s content was needed as memories simply poured out of unconscious resources locked away for decades. There was hardly a supernatural feeling that Dad was with me, (that only happens in the movies) but instead a singular experience with a real appreciation for an hour of dedicated time spent together a near lifetime ago.
The rest of the museum was interesting with several distinct pieces standing out. The first was the bronze statue of Poseidon. This statue, along with the Charioteer seen yesterday, is one of the most complete bronze statues from the Greek Classical period. There were hundreds but when the Turks raided Greece during the Ottoman Empire the remainder were melted down and carried back to Istanbul, creating other works.
An attribute learned yesterday, while in Delphi, is that Greek marble statuary during the Classical Period maintained an “S” body curve shape. Thinking to the other Greek carvings in Europe museums they do maintain the body curve, starting from the arms, through the torso, hips, and legs. Unfortunately, I didn’t ask the question as to the special meaning of the “S” to that period but the form is clearly there.
There were a few other works that stood out to me, because of the quality of human facial expression.
Finally, there was one world that made me smile. I call it “group hug”, but in reality it is a bronze scene found on the Athens Acropolis of a group of dancers.
Leaving the Athens hostel at 2:00pm for a 4:30pm flight, there shouldn’t have been any challenge in arriving at check-in two hours ahead of departure, according to the hostel owner. This turned out to be absolutely bogus information. The subway train arrived after an hour and forty minutes. Somewhat resigned to the idea that this flight was lost I jogged up to the empty Malev Airlines check-in counter. Actually, with 45 minutes prior to departure the manager didn’t even blink, checked me in and sent the bad off to be loaded. Whew, what a relief!
The first impression of Budapest is positive. Riding in the bus, the familiar flat plains nestled between rolling hills definitely cited that I was officially in Europe. Budapest is still bouncing back from years of communist rule and economic pilfering. However, the city gives a great first impression. The narrow streets and classic buildings are inviting. Staying in the city is not inexpensive compared to the Middle East. This hostel costs 17 Euro a night and the outside looks speak to the inside as well.
Venturing out to find dinner, I looked up a major street under construction to find a beautiful Basilica partially hidden by the tall buildings.
Tomorrow should be a great day to explore!
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