The air is crisp, but the skies are blue. The attempt at flurries last night resulted in a few random flakes, so the walk to the south train station was clear. Walking by Columbus Platz, a glass representation of the world hangs out into the plaza.
The train was waiting for passengers, which is always a better option than standing in the cold for a half hour. Trains heading to the former Eastern Block countries are noticeably older than those in Central Europe.
There is only one first class car, at the end of the train. So, I get the unusual advantage of a caboose view of the tracks, which are unwaveringly straight for a very long time.
Traveling through eastern Austria, the Czech Republic, and then Poland, the landscape is incredibly flat and unchanging. Logistically, it becomes pretty apparent how these countries are the perpetual acquisition targets of neighboring forces.
By and large the stations are well kept and from a distance the farm communities do not show the neglect of the communist era, or they were relatively easy to renovate in the last ten years.
Arriving in Krakow, finding the hostel, and immediately going out for a walk, I am easily impressed with the city.
It has great charm, positioned on the banks of a meandering river.
Wandering around the base of the old castle, I run into a friendly stein of beer complete with flyers for a local restaurant. What the heck? Why not?
The Pod Wawelem Restaurant’s name literally means “under the Wawel”, which is the name of the hillside castle. This place is loaded with charm before even entering by the side door.
With each new location the local food must be consumed, so the waitress has suggested Polski Zurek (a traditional sour soup with kilbasa and an egg) and home made pierogi stuffed with cheese and potatoes. The food is outstanding and warming on a chilly Polish evening.
The restaurant is filled with locals and a pair of musicians work the crowd. (That would be the crowd inside, as I was the sole patron who opted for the outside heated non-smoking section.)
The Wawel Castle towers looked more elegant than imposing against the black night sky.
On the twenty-minute walk back to the hostel, the large dip in temperature was becoming very obvious.
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