Every city seems to have its “old castle” or “palace” but the Wawel Palace holds a special place in the hearts of the Polish people. It was the center of rule for the fifty years of independence they experienced in the last 200 years. Their flatlands to the south make Poland the perfect entryway for any invading army. The Austrians ruled, followed by a stint of idependence, then the Germans occupied, then the Russians, and finally, today, freedom.
After finally being freed of the Austrians, the Polish people celebrated by rehabilitating the Wawel. Fortunately, the structure and its contents remained relatively in tact even after occupation by the Germans and Russians.
Like any good fortress, the Wawel sits on the most elevated piece of property in the area, which is not saying much. What makes it particularly picturesque is that it also sits above a bend in the Wisla River. The entry gate is grand with many coats of arms surrounding the entrance.
Inside there is the Bazylika Archikatedralna, which definitely qualifies as just another European Cathedral, with a couple of exceptions.
First the city view of Krakow is great from the bell tower.
Then there are the impressive bells, weighing tons, …
… and the even more impressive wooden timbers. There simply aren’t trees this large left in Europe. The wooded tower was made of beams more than three hand widths across and over a foot thick.
Architecturally the side domes for chapels are interesting, but if you are debating whether a visit is worth the entrance fee, the skip the interior.
The main part of the palace portion of the castle surrounds a Renaissance courtyard. This is by far the best palace museum I’ve ever visited. Instead of big empty, but beautifully decorated halls, each room is filled with furniture as if the Polish king were just on vacation. Unfortunately, again a “no photos allowed” tour, but I would highly recommend the visit.
Heading out the back gate of the Wawel complex and down the hill, the next area on the Krakow agenda was a visit to the Jewish Quarter.
By and large it is still experiencing the blight of Soviet neglect but a few places are coming along.
To me, this photo is the epitomy of Krakow life today. There are many new changes coming along, but why leave what has worked for so long (like this great Volvo and Vespa)?
Synagoga Izaaka is one of the exceptions for this area.
It is being renovated, after forty years of neglect.
The approach is interesting, in that they will reinforce any remaining paintings on the walls with stronger coloring, but will not replicate to fill the gaps. At one point the entire edifice was painted with script and design.
In the end, this will not become a consecrated synagogue again but will serve as a meeting center. However, it will have a refurbished Arc complete with Tora.
It was approaching two in the afternoon and I was getting very hungry. I saw a group of kids with these massive sandwiches, so asked where I could find one. There English was quite good but I still couldn’t find the store and went back for a second directing. Then, there was the stand in all its tiny glory.
Struggling with the menu and finding "just what those kids were eating", I felt someone brush up against me. It was the leader of the group of kids and he said, “I came to help you translate the Polish.” Awesome! In a matter of a few moments, behold the monster sandwich. We were both very pleased.
Re-energized by lunch, the old center of town was the focus for the afternoon.
Similarly to Prague, there is an old square lined with shop, churches, and restaurants.
The main market is filled with typical tourist overpriced trinkets and trash, but at least here they are not made in China but locally.
The great surprise of the day was the Bazylika Mariacka. This Basilica, built in the 13th century, is nothing short of the most beautiful edifice that I have ever seen. The huge vaulted ceilings are all painted in rich tones, along with the towering walls. The impression is a massive space that is as warm and comforting as your favorite living room. The wooden Veit Stross Alter, the largest of its kind in Europe, towers with life size wooden carvings. If you ever make it to Krakow, this is a definitive “must see”! (Unfortunately, you will just have to take my word for it as photography limitations were in affect.)
In the evening I met up with Vaclav, Anezka, and a Brazilian guy to head out in to the night for dinner. Vaclav’s ego seemed to be growing or he was seeking to assume power as "The Big Giant Head".
Ultimately we ended up spending the evening in a quaint cellar tavern.
I guess the translation of “say cheese” didn’t make it to Portuguese, because he was the only one with a normal smile.
All in all we had a great time and somewhere along the line an invitation to go to Prague in the morning was extended and accepted. Warsaw will have to wait for another time.
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