November 15, 2006

Mt. Fuji



Twenty miles plus and I didn’t even touch the snow or get above the tree line with a seven-hour effort. Since the official climbing season for Mt. Fuji closed at the end of August, there were no buses running to provide a higher altitude starting point. So, leaving from town I started my ascent. After climbing on a road for four hours I came to a serious road gate, spikes and all, which definitely made the point that the road was closed for the season. Disappointed, I began the descent and not a moment too soon.





The temperature was in the upper 30’s and with wind chill was down right freezing. After making the turn to come back down the mountain my core temperature plummeted. It was miserable with the chill being so deep that the veins in my arms hurt. With the emotional letdown of having to turn around, my body really began to complain in the form of aching feet and knees. Pavement is an awful thing on which to wear hiking boots. I immediately began to drink lots of water and down some calories to get the inner furnace stoked again. Every ten minutes or so another clothing layer was added. The challenge was being chilled to the bone, yet still sweating. The gradual approach to increasing thermal layers eventually paid off.



Hopefully, this was all good learning for later alpine adventures on Everest in January and then later Kilimanjaro. The primary take away was to make sure that all skin surfaces are covered, even when a merino t-shirt seems to be the perfect layer. The wind was stealing warmth from my arms while the core was pumping out heat on the ascent, however, after making the turn the reduced effort did not produce as much energy and the pre-chilled extremities drug the core temperature down aggressively.

I had to laugh at myself, because the verse about “the voice of one crying in the wilderness” came to mind. Instead of the verbatim, after taking a picture it came to me that this is “the face” of one crying in the wilderness. Sorry, no tears, but the pain was easily discernable. Haaa…

November 14, 2006

Tokyo to Kawaguchiko

After having the cursory glance at Tokyo, I really had the urge to get out into the country and that meant Mt. Fuji. The helpful African guy working at the hostel front desk in Tokyo said that the mountain would be closed to hiking. After being shut out of hiking the Milford Track in New Zealand, I simply couldn’t take this on blind faith to be true. So I jumped on a train, actually three different trains, and am now nicely settled in a traditional Japanese hotel room at the base of Mt. Fuji.

The room experience should be really interesting. There is a little tea table in the center (I am enjoying some hot green tea right now) and that is it.



The floor has traditional matting but it is by no means soft. In a shelved area is something resembling a thick comforter, that hopefully is the mattress of sorts. I am grateful to have my camping gear along. If all else fails, the Thermo-Rest backpacking pad will make an appearance and all will be well.



I experienced jovial welcoming behavior from both ends of the spectrum today. Before leaving Tokyo I stopped into the neighborhood noodle shop for a bowl. Sitting at the counter, I had the destiny of eating right next to a happy drunk (mind you this is 10:00am). He was all smiles and hick-ups. I didn’t know people actually did that. After finally connecting, in recognition of the name “Ichiro”, he launched into speaking a mile a minute. The entire conversation was in Japanese. I just kept smiling and nodding, which amused the cooks. After a well paced ingestion of noodles, broth, veggies and rice I thanked everyone and was more than ready to hit the road or in this case rails.

The other welcoming experience was on the train, after making a transfer to a particularly busy rail car. A sweet Japanese grandmother type figure made room in the seat next to her and I sat down. Again, no English was spoken, as she glowed and loved chatting with me. I showed her my ticket and she dug into her purse to find a small scrap of paper and a pencil. She then drew what looked like a circle with squiggly lines rising perpendicular to the surface. (After arriving at Kawaguchiko the tourist signs pointed out the locations of natural hot springs utilizing the same symbol.) Later in the trip she fell asleep so I thought it would not be rude to listen to my ipod. Staring out the window across the aisle from our seat I felt a nudge in my left shoulder. She wanted to share a piece of hard wrapped candy with me. She made my day, so we took a picture.



A nice recognition in Japan is an apparent respect for recording their physical history. It was great to run across this old train, that used to run the Fuji route, preserved next to the station.

November 13, 2006

Tokyo

Yikes, my dogs are barking! My feet haven’t been this sore since moving to NYC. With the help of the front desk attendant at the hostel, I basically knocked out all the tourist attractions on my list in a single day: Asakusa Kannon Temple, Imperial Palace, Meiji Shrine, Shinjuku/Times Square, Roppongi and Ginza districts.

The Asakusa Kannon Shrine and Sensoji Temple were an interesting experience in watching the faithful fan incense smoke from the urns, piling it upon their heads and wafting it to their chests. There was also the ceremonial washing, where water was drawn with long handled brass cups, then run over the hands and arms. (Some used the water rinse their mouths.) This was all prior to entering the temple, where an offering was made prior to a brief petition.





In a small garden adjacent to the large temple, a brass Buddha sat, with polished head. Watching the worshippers, they would make a small payment into an offering box and then appeared to rub the statue where they needed help or sought wisdom. Nearly everyone started or finished with a good Buddha statue head rubbing.



The inside of the Imperial Palace was closed, so the changing of the guard at the front gate was the main attraction. The swans didn’t take the day off though, adding a great touch to the visual.





The Meiji Jingu Shrine is a Shinto holy place built in remembrance of the emperor and his wife in the early part of the 20th century. The original edifice was burden during WWII bombings and rebuilt in 1959.



Architecturally, the crazy thing about Tokyo is that the city planners don’t seem to have any issues with mimic-ing other cities. Literally. Near the “Times Square” Shinjuku District there are replicas of the Empire State, Flat Iron, and Citicorp buildings, not to mention the attempt at replicating the areas namesake. The other humorous attempts are an ABC store and a knock off of L.L. Bean called L-Breathe that even utilizes the same font and color scheme as the Maine original. The final borrowed icon is the Tokyo Tower, a not so life size red and white effigy of the Eiffel Tower.









The Shinjuku, Roppongi, and Ginza areas are all worth the effort to see at night. The Ginza Apple Store was a very helpful stop to get my MacBook up to speed for reading the video output from my camera. This trip has been an amazing demonstration of just how small the world is, as the “Mac Genius” who helped me out was from Mill Valley and used to work in the Apple Store in Corte Madera.



Things I currently love about Japan
• Everything is clean – After an entire day of hiking around Tokyo, only a single piece of garbage, a chips bag, was seen.
• Safety – Simply millions of bikes almost no locks. People literally pull up to the subway station, leave their bike with the others and catch their train. When they return, their bike is waiting. No security guards, just community respect. Helpful, police mini stations are on almost every major downtown corner.



• Pride – It appears that everyone takes their individual jobs seriously and perform at very high levels. People in the service industry actually serve, with a smile. (There are even cones and rubber mats placed in the road to guide you around sidewalk construction.)



• Not yards, gardens – The only lawn seen thus far was around the Emperor’s Palace. What little green space there is surrounding the home is used to grow edible plants.
• Masks – Not the costume, painted variety, but surgical white masks worn by sick people in public. How many trips on the subway in NYC or BART or Golden Gate Ferry would have been so much more comfortable without the human raining spray of the changing of seasons.



• Food – There are these great noodle bars all over the city. For between 4 to 5 dollars a great meal can be had to keep you on your feet and “fueled up” throughout the day.
• Amazing People – By and large, people are more than willing to try to help, even if they don’t speak a word of English they will often seek to understand and help in whatever way possible. Be careful, people will very much go out of their way to help so make sure to ask the right person for the request, e.g. a police officer for local directions, if you don’t want a personal escort to your destination.

November 12, 2006

Sydney to Tokyo

I am actually a little sad to leave Sydney. The city and country have been a great adventure and the fellow travelers delivered a real joy. One of my newfound German friends happened to enter the hostel lobby while I was waiting for the airport shuttle.



She is from Karlsruhe, where Dad’s family lived in Germany. There was a genuine sense of warmth and care. When the van pulled up there was a tangible tension of two people who likely will never see each other again holding on. Release. Turn. Walk to the van. Look over shoulder. (Still there.) Dump bags in the back. (Still there.) Walk along side the van to the front seat. Wave. (Wave back.) Van jolts forward. (Still there and waving.) Out of sight. Moron! No e-mail or contact info. One of these days I will learn to command the moment, relinquishing fate.

The international terminal at Sydney Airport was a complete zoo for 8:30 am. The Qantas queue stretched around the corner and then the length of the terminal. Unbelievable! My flight left at 10:25am and this line represented at least three hours of doing the luggage shuffle. After an hour and fifteen minutes of curling my 19 kg main pack and 11 kg day pack there was a “final call” for the Tokyo flight. In Australia this gives free reign to walk directly to the front counter. Whew. Saved.

Our flight was half empty, translating into an empty seat next to me for the 9 hour and 15 minute flight. The entire experience was completely enjoyable, with service and food exceeding that we received on the top deck of the 747 flight to Sydney in June. (Sorry KJ. Thanks for the once in a lifetime top deck experience.) Arriving in Tokyo, most of the passengers were relaxed and without the typical trans-Pacific grog.

For some reason, I was completely unintimidated by entering a country where hardly a spoken word and definitely not a single written word was comprehensible. I had directions, what else is there really?



Easily grasped in theory, but when directions fall short, in the execution of exiting the subway to a neon-enhanced darkness, what is there to do? Simple. Find a young looking couple on bikes and ask. The couple in their early 20’s had great energy for solving my problem, but just like me little comprehension of exactly what we were attempting to communicate. Finally, like a Rosetta stone discovery, the young man saw a phone number on my hand written directions. Borrowing his girlfriend’s phone he dialed. “Moshi, moshi” was his greeting and then surprisingly he handed the “trinket dangling” phone to me. After a brief conversation, it was clear which one of the six streets that fed into this subway mole-holed intersection led to the Tokyo Hostel.

November 11, 2006

Sydney

What a fun day! Preparing to head out into the morning from the hostel lobby I saw Malte sitting on the couch. He is a young German kid of probably about nineteen and part of the crew from last night’s barbeque. We exchanged greetings and then Malte asked, “What have you planned for today.” I ran through my laundry list of sights and then returned the inquiry. He paused momentarily and said, “I go with you.”

I was actually very happy to have him as an exploration partner. He had an energy and honest invigoration about seeing the city. Since I’m consciously trying to log miles, we walked almost everywhere, which fit perfectly with the conscience of his budget. Our hostel was about 3Km from Darling Harbor and then a long stroll from there to Circular Quay and the Rocks.





I love art and modern art specifically reaches deep within my psyche. To mentally stretch, thinking beyond initial impression and delving into potential meaning reaches my head as well as heart. Malte was great and I had a true partner in crime when he said, “I don’t understand this, but I want to know what the artist was thinking.” Malte’s perspective on various works added even greater depth to the experience, than if I’d sat and processed alone.



We strolled to The Rocks and an open-air market so that I could buy a children’s book about a persuasive wombat. (I had purchased one for Devon in June and now wanted a copy of my own.)



Hungry, we took the next ferry from Circular Quay to Manly Beach for fish & chips.



Malte ended up buying a $4 slice of pizza, but I had to indulge the tradition of eating fish & chips while sitting on the sea wall, watching the people, sea, and surfers. Malte proved he was worth his salt when after eating, bam, I got hit with what felt like a dirt clod on the side of the head. The thud was strong and disorienting.

Stunned and looking at Malte, he asked calmly, “You have shit?”
“Did a seagull shit on me?”
“Yes, you have a big one!” he said without even a snicker.

(Sorry, no pictures to share here.)

I kept waiting. When would the laughter start? Come on Malte at least a giggle, a potential nasal snort of viewing another’s misfortune. Nothing.
“Would you mind watching my bag while I go to the restroom?” I said tentatively.
“Yes. Sure. No problem.” was his sympathetic reply.

Maybe it’s a genetic German thing. I can remember my friend being pooped on while we sat near the steps of Tamalpais High School and there wasn’t a single personal ounce of energy towards laughter, simply a desire to help.

Later in the evening, I went to a movie and Malte opted to walk back to the hostel. When I met up with him and the rest of the German crew by the Anzac Brige no one laughed at my arrival.



He hadn’t told a soul. I knew this because, later, when I told the story to Mena she confirmed that Malte hadn’t shared that part of the day with the group.



I felt deeply valued and respected by this friend of 24 hours who hadn’t sunk to the easy humor that comes at the expense of someone else’s misfortune. At nineteen, Malte is a much bigger man and example than I.

November 10, 2006

Stuart’s Well to Sydney

Mistakenly, I thought that last night would be an opportunity to catch up on sleep while camping in the bush. The temperature and Aboriginal neighbors made this an unreality.

Given my tent was set up in a literal desert, expectations were for a warm beginning to the evening, followed by a cool night. The change never came. My one-man tent proved to be a better insulator than expected. It held a majority of the heat of the day through the night. So laying on top of my sleeping bag the night was an exercise in catnaps. At one point I stuck my head out the tent flap to see a broader blanket of stars than afforded in the Northern Hemisphere. This may be an illusion, since the arrangement and available stars were different.

Just as the temperature appeared to be cooling and a deeper sleep was at hand country music came blaring. I was completely disoriented. Where had I awakened, somewhere in the Tennessee? The Aboriginal teens were cranking country music from one of their cars. As the singer twanged on about wanting to go back to Louisiana, it made me wonder “why” of all the music available in the world these particular native Australians would pick U.S. country music. A check of the watch showed 5:45am.



Culturally, from what I had learned, this group of Aboriginals kept traditional tribal organization. By 6:15am all male adults had left camp. The women sat in the dirt around a fire and tended to the children and teens. The male teens were obviously bored and tried to wander away several times. When one of the females finally noticed the excursion, a single female did all the yelling. It didn’t matter whether one of the toddlers needed to come closer to the circle or one of the five-year-old boys was being too aggressive with one of the penned kangaroos, the same woman gave a guttural reprimand. Everything appeared to result in a tonal throaty yelling. The toddlers snapped to attention at the commands but the older the children the less affected they were. The wandering teen boys simply acknowledged the barking by stopping their forward progress and slowly wandering back in the direction of the fire circle.

A notable cultural difference was the earthly comfort the Aboriginal people appeared to demonstrate. Practically everyone was barefooted. When there was occasion to sit, then the posture was bottoms on the ground and legs straight out in a forward position. This may account for the Aboriginal art form of a “U” symbolizing a seated person, as that would be the imprint left behind in the red sandy soil. The children were covered in a red sandy earth glaze and most adults had a good covering from the thighs down.

Genetically, the Aboriginal people are some of the most anciently pure and consistently evolved on earth. It is interesting how their skin has adapted to protect against the sun, producing deep melanin tones and their hair is predominantly straight and bleached by the sun to blonde tips. Bone structure appears to be very fine. It is a wonder that there haven’t been more great runners aside from the 400 Meter gold medalist Cathy Freeman. Looking at the physical structure of the teens, they have the natural build for foot speed. Given the extreme heat of the central desert, I can’t blame anyone for not being inclined to go for a jog.

The flight from Alice Springs back to Sydney was uneventful. It still takes some “getting used” to open air jet boarding. The stroll on the tarmac is still a novelty. The one process that is actually much more helpful is the dual front and back door loading. This allows for a total passenger embarking process of just about ten minutes.





The backpacker’s hostel where I’m staying this time is not exactly in the center of Sydney, near the far span of the Anzac bridge, away from Darling Harbor. This made me a little apprehensive at first but the people were once again the great equalizer. The hostel was having a Friday night barbeque for $5 AU. We met up on the roof deck and enjoyed burgers, sausages, salads, and bread. The culinary highlight was the kangaroo steak pieces.





While waiting for the food to be prepared, I met a group of German travelers. They were very engaging and accepted me right in to their crew. What made things fun was my growing ability to understand and communicate back. Right now, I listen to the German and respond in English. They seemed to enjoy the idea that I was trying. We hung out for the barbeque and most of the evening.

November 9, 2006

Kata Tjuta (The “Olgas”) to Stuart’s Well

Another sunrise, but a different rock formation, and I met the day at 4:45am. It was well worth the effort for the golden cloud speckled sunrise breaking over the desert. Before the sun actually cracked the horizon a preceding wind swept across the desert flatlands. The wind appeared to be controlled by a natural rheostat, progressively increasing in strength the closer the sun came to the horizon and finally coming to a crescendo after it completely cleared the desert floor.



The rock formation scaled today is called Kata Tjuta, formerly known as “The Olgas”. The differences between this grouping and Uluru are many. First, Kata Tjuta is a series of closely grouped rocks and not a single structure.





The actual rock structure is not pure sandstone but an aggregate mixture of rock and sand. Finally, there was a single Aboriginal sacred valley, so a few routes were well blazed and available for hiking.





Temperature is always a factor in Australia’s central desert. In the winter, evenings and nights can drop well below zero. However, since it is early Spring the temperature is topping out at about 39 or 40 degrees Celsius. Most trails in the park close once the temperature reaches 36 degrees. So, the day starts early in the morning and shuts down for the peak temperature mid-day hours, picking up pace again about an hour before sunset.



I decided to “opt for” the full outback experience tonight by not driving all the way back to Alice Springs and stopping for the night at Stuart’s Water Hole about 100 kilometers outside town. The site comes complete with singing dingo, camels, ostrige, Emu, and kangaroos. The “free camping” section, nicely down wind from the camels, played host to my tent tonight. This should be very interesting, as once again, I am the solo camper.







In any other situation, this would make me a little nervous. The difference here is that I stopped at the station on the way out to Uluru and hung out with the owner to watch the Melbourne Cup, a horse race that literally brings the nation to a standstill for 3.5 minutes each year. In Melbourne, the entire working day is declared a holiday, with many restaurants and pubs providing free dinner to patrons. Who knew a horse race could be such a healthy, community loved, spectacle. It is truly like the Kentucky Derby x 20 or the Super Bowl being declared a state holiday each year. The Mint Julep of Melbourne is fashion. Known as the fashion capital of Melbourne, its residents attempt to “one up” one another with stylish suites, dresses, and crazy flowered and feather hats. The winner of the dress with hat competition becomes somewhat of a local celebrity and is entered into a national competition.

So to prepare for my ultimate “out back” evening I started with a culinary favorite, camel burger. Hmmm… yummy, it was actually not bad, tasting like a cross between beef and venison. So that makes two countries and two local dishes, New Zealand with possum pie and Australia with camel burger. Somehow, with Japan as the next country the culinary extravaganza will likely have a “seafood bent”.