May 29, 2007

Tessin to Berlin

Katrin and I caught a six-something in the morning train to Rostock with connections to Berlin.



It was hard to leave such a warm family setting. Fran’s parents and brother are warm and inviting. They are truly great hosts and made me feel a sense of home that can really be lost through traveling across time and continents.

I really appreciated the pure structure of the Koster home. It was completely uncluttered and comfortable. A couple of the pictures that hung in the livingroom struck a chord with me. First was a picture of Fran's Mom on the first day of school when she was a child. Kids are often given a new backpack and a cone of supplies and goodies on their first day of school for the new year.




Second was a black and white photo of Fran and her brother Marcus. There is just something timeless about this black and white shot. I wish I could have taken a better photo of it.



The German sense of systematic accuracy continues to impress. For example, this is the active schedule for local bus routes stopping at the Hauptbahnhof. How nice would it be to know with confidence when the bus was coming in the States.



After getting re-settled into the St. Christopher's hostel I had a short list of activities for the afternoon. First was food. Not, just any food would do but the classic Berlin snack or lunch of currie wurst. This treat came about when a German prisoner of war, held in the southern US, came back to his wife raving about southern ribs and barbeque. Her response was to mix currie powder with ketchup and serve it over red wurst. Bingo, the currie wurst was born. The challenge these days is that the Turkish schwarma has taken over as the fast food of choice and it is actually pretty difficult to find any traditional currie wurst.



Armed with directions, I started walking deeper into the former East Berlin. As the streets and buildings got a little rougher, I was getting closer to the prize.



Ultimately, I found the famous Konnopke's under the train tracks some twenty blocks away from the hostel.



With a full stomach, I decided to try to find my German doctor friends from the train ride in Tibet. I must have botched the transfer of their phone number to my electronic database, because it was no longer in service. So I headed to the largest hospital complex in Berlin to try to find them. The hospital was easy to find, but they were not registered there.



A little bummed, I summitted to the ultimate destiny of travelers... laundry. So the "Fast and Clean" was my laundry and internet home for a few afternoon hours.



In case you were wondering... this is what internet laundry looks like in East Berlin.



The weather has been very odd for Germany in May. It is very hot in Berlin with strong evening thunderstorms.



Over twenty people died in the country over the long weekend from weather related accidents and watching this stormfront move through, the fact was easily understood.

May 28, 2007

Heiligendamm

Another cloudy beginning to a great day of hanging out together and today’s target was Heiligendamm, the site of the G8 Summit. Germany has spent literally millions of Euro’s to make this quaint vacation town insulated from Bush protesters. The German populous call the President “Bushy”, which may sound sweet but definitely has a pejorative intonation. This didn't seem to bother the seagulls from their perch.



Bush will spend his G8 Summit time in this hotel.



If he is lucky there may be time to cruise the beautiful beaches of this former communist party official seaside holiday resort.





Even in the cool morning fog it is easy to understand how this area was and is prized as a summer vacation haven for the well healed of the former Eastern Block.





We were anticipating police check points and tight security with the major economic summit less than a week away, but we cruised easily through town and enjoyed the scenery.



On the quick ride home (thanks to the autobahn, Fran's driving skills, and swift Audi) we decided to go to the beach for a swim with our giant “life guard dog” Gandolf.





Somehow we fit five adults and one very large puppy in the hatch-back of Fran’s Audi.



On the drive to the sea we experienced a combination of the old and new, former east Germany. Windmills used in the past for grinding wheat to flour stood near wind generators capturing the natural sea breezes and turning them into energy.




We decided to go to a beach outside of Rostock to help avoid the long holiday weekend traffic. Looking to the right, up the coast, are beautiful grassy dunes and beaches.


If you squint and peer to the left, the old tall ships are visible in the city port of Rostock.


The combined tepid air and downright crisp water temperature required some serious psychological boosting to overcoming the shrinking chill. We managed to get submerged and then the Germans took over and went for an actual swim in the sea while their guest slithered off to find a towel. No worries though, if any mishap were to occur, Gandolf the swimmer would instinctually come to your aid.




On the ride home, the sky was kind enough to open up enough to provide some classic pastoral scenes.




After returning to Fran’s hometown of Tessin,



... we walked by fields of gold,



... and we climbed to a hilltop observation tower for broader and hopefully clearer views.



The town of Tessin is the perfect combination of village life and an ideal commute distance to the city of Rostock.



The blooming poppy flowers were the added bonus of the day, providing a picturesque scene difficult to adequately capture.


May 27, 2007

Hidensee

Despite the spotty weather, today was a great Oeste See experience. We headed to an island off the coast called Hidensee that Franziska’s family has frequented for vacations over the last twenty-some years. The island is basically a flat sea plain with a rise at one end with a lighthouse perched on the highest point.





We walked past horse pastures and by cottages where Fran had spent summer vacations as a child.





We were trying to hire a horse cart for a ride to the other side of the island, but the local driver was intent on literally having a two-hour nap.



So we rented bicycles for a great cruise along the flatlands of the southwestern side of island.








We passed beautifully thatched grass roof houses. The thatch-roof houses had an ingenious “lighting rod” system to avoid the obvious combustion issues of a direct lightning strike.



The beaches along the shore were definitely inviting but, even though the clouds were beginning to break a little and the temperature was beginning to be tempting, the weather was just a little too sharp to venture in the sea.



So we continued on our bike ride past more flowered fields and charming buildings… did I really just say “charming”? Oh well…





Maybe it had something to do with the "Grandma bike" I was forced to ride, for which Martina was so gracious to call a "Dutch bike" in a effort to make edearingly sympathetic excuses for how the bike was actually gender neutral.
(Can you pick which one was mine?)


The day would not be complete without desert after the ride, ...
(Martina's plum cake.)

... before catching the ferry back to the mainland.




Come on Fran, how 'bout a smile.
(Model features, even with a frown.)


Ok, that’s much better.



Poor Gandolf, waiting patiently for out return.