May 30, 2007

Berlin

One final day, completely dedicated to tourist daytime activity, remained for Berlin. First I walked from Alexanderplatz to the Brandenburg Gate made internationally famous by the former Berlin Wall and speeches made by Presidents Kennedy and Reagan. JFK endearingly declared himself to be a “Berliner” or jelly donut and Reagan challenged Gorbechov to “tear down this wall”.





No walk down Unter den Linden would be complete without a protest of some sort. Today’s flavor was a protest by EU postal workers, impressive for its multinational contingency.



From the gate I made a right turn to head over to the Reichstag, the German equivalent to the Capital building in Washington, D.C. On the way the strong winds blew over a bike. In my mind I challenged, "I wonder if anyone will pick it up?" No sooner than I had the thought and three strangers bonded together to re-stand the two wheeler. That never would of happened in New York.



Across the street stood the Reichstag building with its impressive glass dome...



... and even more impressive line to get inside for the tour.



Not in the mood for an extended stance in line, I continued on through Berlin's equivalent of Central Park to the Grosser Stern with the Sieges-saule. This stunning statue rises on a pedistal that splits the Strasse des 17, Juni.





Moving right along, I plodded by the poppy lined Landwehrkanal and zoo to eventually exit the park by the Kaiser Wilhelm Church.



(The bees were busy along the banks of the canal.)


(And, of course there is always time for a quick currie wurst break.)


The Kaiser Wilhelm Church was an impressive building prior to the bombings of the 1940's.



The tower has remained as a testament of the destruction of World War II.
As with most things, the pictures of the past were much more impactful than the actual site.



But, in the new and very modern glass edifice an Australian children's choir sang and this was a welcome relief to hours of walking.



From the western edge of the Tiergarten park I took the U-Bahn or subway to Hallesches Tor to walk up Friedrichstrasse, location of the former "Checkpoint Charlie", the definitive and emblematic dividing line between East and West Germany during the Cold War Soviet occupation.



I completely rocommend the Haus Am Checkpoint Charlie for hours of intreguing historic artifacts and log of the Berlin segregation. Many of the contraptions and vehicles actually used to escape Soviet occupation are on display.



(Pretty obvious, but successful, front end compartment for a VW Bug.)


(Not so obvious, and successful, hollowed out pair of windsurfing boards strapped to a car roofrack.)


After a large dose of reality from the Checkpoint Charlie Museum it is almost stomach turning to walk outside and witness the clowns in Soviet and US Military uniforms. The lack of respect and horseplay by these hired immitators was hard to endure. The scene made me wonder how difficult it would be to have an actual military guard on site. These joking, flag dragging, buffoons didn't add an ounce of respect to an extemely tragic point in German history.



Amazingly, there is practically no trace of the segregating Berlin wall or "no man's land" remaining. To find an upright section you have to peer into a corridor outside of the Checkpoint Charlie Museum for a small section moved to it current location.



The one, not so obvious, bifurcating symbol of the former East and West Berlins are the street signal lights for pedestrians. The hat adorned green walking man and T-shaped standing man signal that you are walking an East Berlin street. If the modernized signals are present, then you are on a West Berlin street. This hat bearing street aid has turned into a bit of an icon, with t-shirts printed for tourists.





Finally, bless her heart, Martina met me after a long day at the law firm for evening drinks and conversation. With the aid of an extremely long exposure, the moonlight glazed the gables of this beautiful section of East Berlin.

May 29, 2007

Tessin to Berlin

Katrin and I caught a six-something in the morning train to Rostock with connections to Berlin.



It was hard to leave such a warm family setting. Fran’s parents and brother are warm and inviting. They are truly great hosts and made me feel a sense of home that can really be lost through traveling across time and continents.

I really appreciated the pure structure of the Koster home. It was completely uncluttered and comfortable. A couple of the pictures that hung in the livingroom struck a chord with me. First was a picture of Fran's Mom on the first day of school when she was a child. Kids are often given a new backpack and a cone of supplies and goodies on their first day of school for the new year.




Second was a black and white photo of Fran and her brother Marcus. There is just something timeless about this black and white shot. I wish I could have taken a better photo of it.



The German sense of systematic accuracy continues to impress. For example, this is the active schedule for local bus routes stopping at the Hauptbahnhof. How nice would it be to know with confidence when the bus was coming in the States.



After getting re-settled into the St. Christopher's hostel I had a short list of activities for the afternoon. First was food. Not, just any food would do but the classic Berlin snack or lunch of currie wurst. This treat came about when a German prisoner of war, held in the southern US, came back to his wife raving about southern ribs and barbeque. Her response was to mix currie powder with ketchup and serve it over red wurst. Bingo, the currie wurst was born. The challenge these days is that the Turkish schwarma has taken over as the fast food of choice and it is actually pretty difficult to find any traditional currie wurst.



Armed with directions, I started walking deeper into the former East Berlin. As the streets and buildings got a little rougher, I was getting closer to the prize.



Ultimately, I found the famous Konnopke's under the train tracks some twenty blocks away from the hostel.



With a full stomach, I decided to try to find my German doctor friends from the train ride in Tibet. I must have botched the transfer of their phone number to my electronic database, because it was no longer in service. So I headed to the largest hospital complex in Berlin to try to find them. The hospital was easy to find, but they were not registered there.



A little bummed, I summitted to the ultimate destiny of travelers... laundry. So the "Fast and Clean" was my laundry and internet home for a few afternoon hours.



In case you were wondering... this is what internet laundry looks like in East Berlin.



The weather has been very odd for Germany in May. It is very hot in Berlin with strong evening thunderstorms.



Over twenty people died in the country over the long weekend from weather related accidents and watching this stormfront move through, the fact was easily understood.

May 28, 2007

Heiligendamm

Another cloudy beginning to a great day of hanging out together and today’s target was Heiligendamm, the site of the G8 Summit. Germany has spent literally millions of Euro’s to make this quaint vacation town insulated from Bush protesters. The German populous call the President “Bushy”, which may sound sweet but definitely has a pejorative intonation. This didn't seem to bother the seagulls from their perch.



Bush will spend his G8 Summit time in this hotel.



If he is lucky there may be time to cruise the beautiful beaches of this former communist party official seaside holiday resort.





Even in the cool morning fog it is easy to understand how this area was and is prized as a summer vacation haven for the well healed of the former Eastern Block.





We were anticipating police check points and tight security with the major economic summit less than a week away, but we cruised easily through town and enjoyed the scenery.



On the quick ride home (thanks to the autobahn, Fran's driving skills, and swift Audi) we decided to go to the beach for a swim with our giant “life guard dog” Gandolf.





Somehow we fit five adults and one very large puppy in the hatch-back of Fran’s Audi.



On the drive to the sea we experienced a combination of the old and new, former east Germany. Windmills used in the past for grinding wheat to flour stood near wind generators capturing the natural sea breezes and turning them into energy.




We decided to go to a beach outside of Rostock to help avoid the long holiday weekend traffic. Looking to the right, up the coast, are beautiful grassy dunes and beaches.


If you squint and peer to the left, the old tall ships are visible in the city port of Rostock.


The combined tepid air and downright crisp water temperature required some serious psychological boosting to overcoming the shrinking chill. We managed to get submerged and then the Germans took over and went for an actual swim in the sea while their guest slithered off to find a towel. No worries though, if any mishap were to occur, Gandolf the swimmer would instinctually come to your aid.




On the ride home, the sky was kind enough to open up enough to provide some classic pastoral scenes.




After returning to Fran’s hometown of Tessin,



... we walked by fields of gold,



... and we climbed to a hilltop observation tower for broader and hopefully clearer views.



The town of Tessin is the perfect combination of village life and an ideal commute distance to the city of Rostock.



The blooming poppy flowers were the added bonus of the day, providing a picturesque scene difficult to adequately capture.