May 26, 2007

To Rostock

I have been looking forward to this day for the last eight months. Today, I travel to the former East German seaside town of Rostock to spend the long weekend with my German lawyer friends Martina, Franziska, and Katrin. We all met in San Francisco last summer and vowed to get together again on the Oeste See.

Martina and I met in the brand new Berlin Haupt Bahnhoff or main train station.



This place is an incredible erector set of suspended glass, concrete, and suspended train tracks.



Martina and her boyfriend met me at the station, where we purchased tickets from an extremely complicated machine, designed to simplify the purchase cycle, and then boarded the train.
(You may have to click on this one to see them in the left corner. Martina has the great smile.)


Unfortunately, Marina’s boyfriend could not join us for the weekend so it was just the two of us on a locally routed train, complete with cute kids and puppies.



After arriving in Rostock we had a boat tour of the seaport, for which I happened to leave my camera in the car, and then headed to Fran’s parent’s house for dinner.



Katrin "pitched in" with making a salad...



... and Fran’s Dad served as the “Grill Meister” before the watchful eyes of the dog.



(Gandolf the energetic teenager.)


Her family was very inviting, including their enormous Newfoundland dog. He was very sweet and a massive companion.





After dinner, we went for a great walk around town and to the top of a local hill for a broader view of the town of Tessin...



... and the local park fields including newly constructed autobahn.



The secenery would not be complete without a group shot of Martina, Fran's mother, and Katrin.



One thing is certain; Fran loves her baby.

May 25, 2007

Berlin

Today, I lived for Dad. He talked for hours to me about the German National Museums, it is a complex of five museums, in East Berlin and how he wished that he could go to see them. During the cold war, given his military background, he could not cross the boarder. During his later years the war was with his physical ability and ultimately he was never able to make the trip. So today, I saw what Dad dreamed.





The German sense of timing is incredible. The first museum of the day was the Bode. The gate did not open at 9:55am or 10:05am, but exactly and precisely at the stroke of 10:00am. Precision to the nth degree executed perfectly.

The Bode is the sculpture museum of the National Museum complex. You will find everything from woodcarving, marble sculptures, castings, to ancient coins. Not only are the exhibits interesting but the museum itself is a work of art.



(I especially like this sculpture because it captured the "Fully Man" contemplative anguish.)


An interesting, out of place exhibit was a map cabinet of coptic fabric. In Egypt there were only minor weathered scraps of cloth with barely visible design. Here were beautifully preserved fabrics from late first and second century Egyptian/Coptic Christians.



Next on the cultural quintet of museums was the Pergamon that is named after the Greek temple reconstructed inside. The ancient world has been raided by the Western world and preserved. That continues to be the great quandary, should the ancient relics have been left to rot and weather in their native land or was “the end” of Western acquisition and preservation an ultimate “justification”. Regardless, the temple is very impressive especially considering that most of it was totally destroyed to rubble and archeologists reconstructed one of the largest three-dimensional puzzles ever. Much of the temple was retrieved from destroyed Greek city walls, as the materials were reused once the temple was originally destroyed in antiquity.





(Model of the entire complex that is too big to capture singly by camera.)


Next on the “impressive” scale was the reconstruction of the city walls of Babylon. These were the market gates during the time of King Nebakanezar. Each brick was uncovered out of the sands of Iraq individually and the matched to other individual pieces to reconstruct the gate.



Then there is the throne room wall. Can you imagine that Daniel, of Daniel and the Lion’s Den fame, actually stood before these walls and proclaim, “King Nebakanezar, live forever, and then held his faith and sealed his sentence.”



The Alte National Gallery was exhibiting a French collection of sculpture and paintings. There were many that I enjoyed, but then creativity started to get the better of me.

(The museums are under major retro-fitting.)


I’ve now seen Rodin’s “Thinker” in Paris, San Francisco, and Berlin but at least in this exhibit you get an idea of what or whom he may be thinking of.



(Come on, doesn’t this painting look like it could be Leonardo Di’Caprio’s long lost relative.)


On the way from the Alte National Gallery to the Altes Museum I saw and heard a familiar theme. It was Saint-Saens’, “The Swan” played by a violin and guitar. It honestly gave me goose-bumps.







The only known bust of Nefertiti is the prize of the Egyptian exhibit and there is some talk as to when it should be returned to the Egyptian people.



The preservation of other artifacts is very impressive. For instance, this coffin painting is almost two thousand years old and looks practically new.



Or this almost perfectly preserved Greek metal work.



This bust of George Bush playing the air flute looks like it came from his first term in office. (Totally kidding, but it does look like him… even just a little bit.)



After the Altes Museum, I went inside the Berlin Dome or State Church.



The original dome was bombed out in WWII but the rest of the structure remained relatively in tact. So it was decided to rebuild the dome and refurbish the interior to its former status.



The inside is impressive, but what is even more impressive is the view of Berlin from the exterior gallery at dome level. The city is vibrant with bifurcating river and many parks.





Finally, the last picture of the day, Alexander Platz is the perfect blend of old and new, with old church and new spire. Combine these two with major forms of Berlin transport, car and bike, and there is a reasonable facsimile of Berlin in a single shot.

May 24, 2007

To Berlin

The final day of Prague and there wasn’t much to do but wander the town. I’m finding, to cover the major sites of most cities, two days is plenty. Three is really too short a time to arrange a trip to another town and return, so three days is the perfect quandary.

The plan was to visit the Jubilejni Synagogue, another important WWII Era monument, as a morning historical filler. But, upon arrival the synagogue was closed for the Shavuoth.




So instead, I walked past the Powder Tower and on to the internet café. Two and a half hours on line equals two days of posting. (I hope you enjoyed Mykonos. I had fun searching through which pictures to share.)



Prague is a city of many lives. If one ventures out before about 10:00am the city will be lightly populated with locals. After ten and the tourist dam breaks. Wenseslass Square, Charles Bridge, and Prague Castle become a sea of multi-lingual humanity. So, if you are interested in the beauty and charm of Prague, I definitely recommend exploring on the early side of the day. The evening is yet another crowd and more of the happy drunk scene. One definitely needs to watch your pockets, as in any city, but even after midnight the city feels generally safe.

The big city center meeting place is Wenseslass Square, complete with a 500 year old clock with moving parts.



The tourists flock here to gain position to watch the mechanical show, sometimes a half hour before the massive clock strikes the hour. After watching a death skeleton pull the chain to strike the hours and a few characters rotate, one tourist exclaimed, “That’s it?!” Well, it is 500+ year old technology…

(Skeleton at the three o'clock position.)



As a change of pace, I decided to take public transportation on the return trip to the airport. For comparison, this cost 20 KC or approximately $1 USD, as opposed to the 316 KC for a shared mini-bus. The Prague airport is a beautiful building. So much of the infrastructure for former Soviet block countries has been built in the last ten years that airtravel is a modern architectural adventure.

(Note the tiled world map in the floor.)




East Berlin falls into this category as well. Much of the city has been renovated or reconstructed that the Eastern portion of the city definitely rivals the West for comfort, activity, and style.

(View from the St. Christopher's Hostel window.)

May 23,2007

Prague

Kristen left this morning to continue the business trip to the Symantec offices in Ireland, so we shared a cab that dropped me off at a backpacker’s hostel and she carried on to the airport. The idea today was to continue where we left off yesterday and finished the primary tourist sites at the Prague Castle.



So, back over the Charles Bridge, through the winding streets and up the hill to Prague Castle I ventured.



(Nice to have statues pointing the way.)



(And finally the cardio workout of the day on the "Prague Stairmaster".)


The beautiful thing about Prague is that one can avoid the hordes of tourists by simply starting out the day at about nine in the morning. Pick your favorite site to see in relative peace, because that will be your only solitude of the day. Notice the difference a couple hours makes in the foot traffic on the Charles Bridge.
(Morning)

(Afternoon)


For me the top pick was St. Vitus’s Cathedral. In itself it was beautiful. For some reason these structures don’t particularly evoke a spiritual connection for me but trigger an architectural appreciation. The Gothic Era of construction is especially impressive, with detailed carvings poking out of almost every crevasse.



One of my favorite details of the period are the gargoyles that line the roof seam, attached to the buttresses. Their mouths serve as the rain spouts and when water is flowing their exaggerated expressions don’t seem so wildly out of place. Did you know that they get their name from the gargling sound that water makes as it runs through the pipes and exits their stone mouths?





The early tourist venturers were treated to a much clearer morning than yesterday afternoon’s finish. Climbing one of the Cathedral towers provided a crisp view of the city and was well worth the climbing effort.

(Viewing deck just below copper tower top.)






(Note how close the countryside is to the old city center.)


A couple of art galleries are housed within the castle walls. First is the Prague Castle Picture Gallery, home to many Italian paintings of the 18th century. The good thing is that this gallery was part of the general admission. If you have been to any of the major European galleries this will be a fifteen-minute experience for mental cataloging of many minor artists and a few random masters.

(Sorry no pictures allowed inside.)


The second and National Gallery is worth the effort to browse. You will gain an appreciation for the artistic style of Czech artists and their melding of Austro-Hungarian influences with the greater impact of Italian and Dutch schools.



I love the active motion of the religious statues. It is almost as if these church relics are in the mood to dance. This approach seems more human to me and approachable vs. literally stone-faced sterile statues.



One of the conscious decisions or strategies in making this trip is to see enough so that if I never return there is still satisfaction in the depth of experience while still leaving ample activity unseen so that I could return and share new experiences with someone else. The Prague Loreto falls into this category. It is on the “must see” tourist list and is a beautiful building, but I am consciously saving it for another day.



I'm always a sucker for a good city scape.